PISANG PEAK CLIMBING

The German Expedition team made the first ascent of Pisang peak in 1955. Pisang Peak is taken an easy trekking peak among the other trekking peaks but not much easy which for first time climbers. Of course! You have to have a good walking and climbing habit as well as your courage. Some time we find snow on this peak at the top only.

The attractions

This is one of the classic and most rewarding treks in Nepal . The Southern slopes of Manaslu and, Annapurna ranges are heavily sett l ed and farmed except the higher regions that support thick forests of Rhododendron and fir.
Most of the tribes inhabiting this area are Gurungs, Magars, Chhettris and Newars. Thakali and Mustang tribes control the busy trading and pilgrimage trail along the Kali Gandaki. One of the most striking significance of this trek is that we have a spectacular view of most mountains range every day. On this trek before reaching Mustang area one can see the changes in landscape and plants. After crossing a beautiful Pass popularly known as Thorang La pass (5416 m.) a trekker enters in to Mustang region from where the ranges of Dhaulagiri mountain is visible.
Seen from Pisang the peak rises from yak pastures above the village in a uniform slope to the final summit pyramid which is an undistinguished snow and ice slope. Looked at from above Ongre the peak is a little more interesting and can be seen as curved ridge, with the face above Pisang being the truncated southern end of the mountain. This is made up of steeply tilted rock, the dip slope of which faces the valley and is well seen in this peak and the great rock slabs further down the valley.
The peak obviously has a lot of scope for exploration and pioneering. The whole of the western flank, which is guarded by a hanging glacier would appear to offer a considerable challenge, whilst a traverse of the whole summit ridge which connects to a more northern summit before curving back west looks a superb possibility. Access to the western end of the ridge, however, looks problematical as the ridge is guarded by huge rock slabs, a feature on this side of the valley

Best season to Climbing: In the spring (March to May) when the rhododendrons, the national flower of Nepal, are in bloom. Also in post-monsoon (August to October) when the weather is temperate and the skies are clear.

Trek Grade: Introductory level treks and climbs: moderate, non-technical: This trip is aimed at first time trekkers and non-climbers. It is an advantage to have done some over-night camping trips before but it is not required. A strong spirit of adventure and a willingness to have a go are what you'll need, in addition to a good level of fitness

Maximum altitude: 6091m at Pisang summit

Length of trek: The trek and climb including the preparation in Kathmandu can be completed in a minimum of fifteen days, starting in Kathmandu and finishing in Kathmandu via Lukla. If a few extra days are allowed for it is then possible to deal with the bad weather and acclimatization.  It is advisable to spend 18 – 19 Days along this route to fully experience the full scenic, cultural splendor and get more chances of summit.

Accommodations: Camping arrangement in 2-person tent.

Legal Preparation:  
Permit fee for the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) is needed. The fee structure is as below:

4 Pax  - US$ 350

4 + 1 pax = 5 – US$ 350 +40 = US$ 390

4 + 2 Pax = 6  - US$ 350 +80 = US$ 430

4 + 3 Pax = 7 – US$ 350 + 120 = US$ 470

4 + 4 Pax = 8 - US$ 350 + 160 = US$ 510

8 + 1 Pax = 9 – US$ 510 + 25 = US$ 535

8 + 2 pax = 10 – US$ 510 + 50 = US$ 560

8 + 3 Pax = 11 – Us$ 510 + 75 = US$ 585

8 + 4 Pax = 12  - US$ 510 + 100 = US$ 610

An amount of US$ 250 should be deposited to NMA as Garbage deposit to get permit to Mera Peak. The refund shall be made as per the provisions made by NMA.

Additional Information: The Summit of Pisang can be dangerous at times, especially during unexpected snowfall and Altitudes sickness so potential climbers must make sure that they are well prepared and equipped for all eventualities.  Our experienced Climbing Sherpa /guides will help you to avoid potentially unsafe situations.
Summit day will require an extra-special effort – a big day 10+ hours will be needed as we set off early in the morning for the summit and return all the way to base camp. You will have to be quite strong for this, but building on your good pre-trip fitness, the trekking during the previous weeks should tune your body.

 

 Outline Itinerary


Day 01

Arrival at Kathmandu; transfer to the Hotel

Day 02

Rest day -procedure for official document

Day 03

 Kathmandu to Besi-Sahar; drive

Day 04

 Besi-Sahar to Bahundanda; trek

Day 05

 Bahundanda to Chamje; trek

Day 06

 Chamje to Dharapani; trek

Day 07

 Dharapani to Chame; trek

Day 08

 Chame to Pisang; trek

Day 09

 Pisang to Pisang Base Camp: trek

Day 10

 Acclimatization at Base Camp: rest

Day 11

Base Camp to High Camp: Climb

Day 12

High Camp Peak summit to Base Camp: Climb

Day 13

Base Camp to Pisang: Trek

Day 14

Pisang to Manang: Trek

Day 15

Manang to Thorung Phedi: Trek

Day 16

 Thorong Phedi to High Camp to Muktinath after crossing Thorong La pass (5,416m.); trek

Day 17

 Muktinath to Jomsom; trek

Day 18

 Jomsom to Pokhara; fly from Jomsom

Day 19

 Pokhara to Kathmandu; Drive / fly

 

Price – US$ 1250 Per Person
Price Includes: -
1. Transport from the international airport to your hotel at your arrival/Departure/ Domestic airport Arrival/Departure.
2. A fully organized trek/climb with

Tents.

Foam mattresses.

Porters.

Cook.

Climbing guide

Sherpa staff.

3. Peak Permit.
4.  Garbage Deposit.
5. A snow-stake.
6. Climbing rope for Mera.
7. All ground Transportation and flight for Nepali staff, their insurance, daily wage, Meals and accommodation. 
8. 3 night Hotel Accommodation in star level hotel in Kathmandu (double room basis) Farewell Dinner in Kathmandu.

Price Excludes:

Flight Fare (Kathmandu / Lukla / Kathmandu – Per Person US$ 202)

You will be responsible for soft drinks, bottled water, alcoholic drinks, tips to staff (Highly Recommended, Especially for Porters), any insurance coverage and your climbing gear. You can rent crampons, ice axe, sleeping bags, down/fleece jackets etc in KTM to equip yourself for the trek.

Meals and Accommodations in Kathmandu (We can arrange Hotels for you)

Any others not mentioned in ” Price include

Detailed Itinerary
Day 01 / Day 02:  Arrive Kathmandu, transfer from airport to hotel, preparation for trek.
On arrival in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, you will be met at the airport and transferred to our hotel by our staff. After coming to terms with your new environment your trip leader will hold a trip briefing at the hotel. They will explain where things are in Kathmandu, what will happen in the next couple of days in preparation for the trip and check through your gear to ensure the smooth running of the trek and climb.

Day 03: Kathmandu to Besisahar by Bus – Overnight Hotel.
We leave Kathmandu early in the morning by private bus/car. It is a scenic drive with several picturesque gorges and occasional glimpses of mountain peaks. We will stay Overnight in a lodge at Besi Sahar.

 

Day 04: Besisahar to Bahundanda - Accommodations (Tea House)                                    
From Besi Sahar the trail descends to the marshyangdi river then climbs steeply through the deep gorge. It moves up and down through fields, tropical forest and small hamlets to the Gurung village of Khudi at 825m. It is from this region that the British Army recruits many young men into the Gurkha regiment, and we occasionally meet soldiers who are home from Britain on vacation. From Khudi, The trial heads northwards up the Marsyangdi valley and get our first views of Himalchuli (7893m) and Peak 29 (7836m).  We cross the Marshyandi River on a wide suspension bridge, which brings us to the village Bhulebule. From Bhulbhule we trek up the east bank of the river to the lush green paddies fields around Ngati. We again cross the river on a high suspension bridge and make the final steep climb to the village of Bahundanda (1320m). Prayer flags and chortens can now be seen, indicating the Tibetan influences in the region.

Day 05: Bahundanda to Chamje (1,430m).
Today as we trek up the valley the sides will begin to narrow and increase in height. After walking through several villages the trail descends to the valley floor and crosses a steel suspension bridge across the Marshyangdi to the village of Syange. There is a steep climb from here to Chamje.

Day 06: Chamje to Dharapani (1,940m).
The trail passes through an oak forest and over a ridge to arrive in a wide valley with the village of Tal. Soon after leaving this village the climbs the narrowing valley and descends to cross the river at Dharapani.

Day 07: Dharapani to Chame (2,700m).
We climb to the village of Bagarchhap, walk through a forest and then follow the river to Chame.Today, there are great views of Annapurna II (7,937m) and Lamjung Himal (6,932m) up the valley and if you look back you will be able to see the Manaslu (8,154m) and Peak 29 (7,833m).

Day 08: Chame to Pisang

The trek undergoes a dramatic change of scenery as we leave behind the dense forests and fertile agricultural land of the lowlands and enter a high and arid Himalayan region. Sparse stands of oak, birch and pine dot the landscape and in the fields there are potatoes, wheat and corn, which are the staples of the region. The people are Tibetan in appearance and rows of elaborately carved mani stones line the trail. To respect the local beliefs these stones, as well as prayer wheels and other Buddhist icons on the trail, should always be passed in a clockwise direction keeping them to your right. As we progress the valley adopts a distinctive glaciated ‘U’-shaped appearance and in front of us raise a series of tremendous rock slabs. We climb up to the village of Pisang (3185m) with its prayer flags and flat-roofed Tibetan buildings.

Day 09: Pisang to Pisang Base Camp (4380m): Trek
Via upper Pisang Village ascend a path through sparse wood and pasture to a Kharka at 4380 meters. This place provide a good site for base camp.
Day 10: Rest at Base Camp: Acclimatization
A necessary day to rest and acclimatize and explore around Pisang Peak Base Camp and trek up to high camp and return to BC again
Day 11: Pisang Base Camp to High Camp (5400m): Climb
A faint trail continues on open hillside, following a ridge and climbing to a shoulder on the South-West Ridge, which provides a suitable site for high camp. Under some conditions this may be under snow. Please note that your porters and trekking guide will not go any further than Base Camp. Only climbing guide will be together with you during the climbing period.
Day 12: High Camp to Peak Summit (6091m) to Base Camp: Climb & descent
Early morning around 3:00 A.M. get ready for climbing. Dress up to be done and breakfast is taken before leaving for the summit. Above, a well-defined ridge leads to the final snow slope which leads quite steeply although without difficulty to the summit. One can see beautiful views of many snowy mountains from the summit. Descent is made by the same route to high camp and after backpack go down to Base Camp to meet your porters and trekking guide who are waiting for happy news.
Day 13: Pisang Base Camp to Pisang: Trek
After a 6-hour walk through the same trails back to Pisang.
Day 14: Pisang to Manang (3511m): Trek
We return to the main trail and head towards Manang. We continue treading along the cultivated fields and after a while village of Bryaga accommodating a splendid monastery appear before us. On trekking down to Manang, we embrace heavenly vistas of Annapurna range - Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Gangapurna [7455m] and Tilicho Peak [7134m]. We camp at the fortified villages of friendly Manang people for the night. Manang is a fascinating medieval village of just over 500 flat-roofed houses.
Day 15: Rest at Manang : Acclimatization
It is important to have an extra day in Manang in order to help acclimatization for the next few days as we start the climb towards the Thorong La. Behind the village is a small hill, which makes a worthwhile training exercise and provides magnificent views of the whole Annapurna range. The icefall, which descends from Gangapurna, is in a constant state of change and we will probably witness huge blocks of ice calve off and come crashing down. We also can walk to Khangsar village on the way to Tilicho Lake or a longer walk to Ice Lake above Braga. It is well worth visiting the Gompa above Braga as well as attending the Himalayan Rescue afternoon lecture on altitude and acclimatization. However, we have a succession of hard days ahead of us so for the sake of our legs it is best to gain as much rest today as possible.
Day 16: Manang to Chulu Lader (4200m): Trek
We branch away from the Marsyandi Khola steadily climbing into quiet distinct alpine areas. Overnight at Lader. Approximately 3 hrs. Walk.
Day 17: Chulu Lader to Chulu Base Camp (4534m): Trek
Finding base camp is to walk above Manang to a Yak herder's hut from where you view the South Face of Chulu Central. Go beyond the hut following the Yak pastures and walk up a ridge which leads into a hidden valley where it is possible to find a good site for base camp.
Day 18: Chulu Base Camp to Chulu High Camp (5100m): Climb
From this camp, ascend steep slopes to a col (4,900m.), on a subsidiary ridge that leads down from the main ridge. To the north of the col ascend snow slopes for 200 meters to the base of a band of rock at an altitude of 5,100meters for high camp
Day 19: Chulu High Camp to summit the peak (6250m) to Base Camp
Climb the rock band with some difficulty to the north-west shoulder of Chulu West (5,450m), where another camp can be established or alternatively a camp can be placed on a snow plateau above (5,530m.). On the first ascent and several subsequent ascents rope was fixed on the rock band. From the plateau continue up the progressively narrowing ridge to the summit (6,250m.). Descend by the same route to Base Camp.
Day 20: Chulu Base Camp to Thorung Phedi: Trek
An easy way walk down to Thorong Phedi.
Days 21: Thorung Pheti to High Camp to Muktinath via Thorung La Pass (5416m): trek
We leave Thorong Phedi before first light and begin making our way up the frozen shattered scree path. Initially the path ascends quite steeply but as dawn breaks and the sun raises over the cobalt-blue horizon the angle eases and the trail becomes enjoyable. As we climb higher the views become more impressive and we can look back towards the Chulu peaks and across to Manaslu. The trail undulates over many false summits before finally reaching the colorful collection of prayer flags which adorn the top of the pass at 5416m. Here we are treated to a fantastic view down towards Muktinath in the Kali Gandaki valley – an arid and desolate Tibetan landscape. Above us rises the fluted peak of Thorong Phedi and beyond lies the entire Annapurna range. If the weather is good we can linger on the pass taking numerous photographs and greeting other trekkers making this arduous crossing. Eventually it’s time to leave and we descend steeply down a long series of switchbacks and scree. Ski poles will be found useful on this section to protect our knees from the pounding they’ll be getting as we drop 1600 meters to Muktinath. The village is situated in a pleasant grove of poplar trees and has a selection of comfortable lodges where beer and soft drinks are available. There is also a fascinating Gompa and Hindu temple where naturally occurring gas venting out of the ground burns as a small perpetual flame, making this a pilgrimage site of great importance.

Days 22: Muktinath to Jomsom: trek
After breakfast it is well worth going to visit the temples above the village of Muktinath. The trail passes through a beautiful arid landscape in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, this is starkly different to green and lush terrain at the start of our trek a week ago!
We descend steeply to the green oasis of Kagbeni. It is a fascinating place to explore with narrows streets and old buildings. One needs a special permit to follow the path north of Kagbeni along the Thak Khola to Upper Mustang. The trail follows the Kali Gandaki down to the town of Jomsom and then on to the pretty village of Marpha set amongst apple orchards.

Days 23: Jomsom to Pokhara: fly
We take an early morning flight to Pokhara. It is a spectacular flight along the Kali Gandaki Gorge and provides wonderful views of both the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges. We then catch a flight back to Kathmandu.
Days 24: Pokhara to Kathmandu; drive / fly
Drive by tourist bus from Pokhara to Kathmandu around 06-07 hours (depending upon road conditions). Another option is to drive by private car or take the 25-30 minutes flight from Pokhara back to Kathmandu.

Day 25: Depart Kathmandu
Our Nepalese support team will take you to the airport for your flight home. (Or stay longer for short tours such as game drive at National parks, rafting, Tibet tours, mountain biking etc).

Extra Days: If you would like to spend a few extra days in Nepal visiting some of the wonderful cultural sites around Kathmandu or go down to the tropical 'Terrai'- plains to see some Nepali jungle and possibly even a tiger or two, we can arrange extra nights accommodation, local sightseeing or a jungle lodge stay. Email us for options.
ANOTHER OPTION is a side trip up to Namche Bazaar. After your trek from Lukla it will take only 2-3 days return, to take in the sights and sounds of this capital of the Sherpa people. Namche offers a fantastic cultural experience - a city in the clouds and the mountains.

 

 

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Naya Bazar
Kathmandu, Nepal
Phone (Mobile):
00 977 9841 647 842
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00 977 1 219 0176
E-mail: info@nepaltraveltrek.com